Roda de samba, which roughly translates to ‘samba circle’, is where a group of musicians literally sit in a circle and play samba music, so it does what it says on the tin.

Other than someone perhaps counting them in, there is seemingly no single leader in the ring of musicians, as they can all see each other and feel the music together.

Usually, people are watching from at least three sides and often people will be in a complete circle around the musicians which makes it feel like you’re a part of something rather than an outsider looking in. It’s less like a show and more like a shared experience where everyone’s presence feeds into the energy of the room.

“As soon as I obeyed Natasha Bedingfield and released my inhibitions, my night was infinitely better.”

A roda de samba is something that everyone must experience at least once when visiting Brazil, so here are two brilliant places in São Paulo that I highly recommend. Read until the end to hear about the 72 year old who was a total star and an inspiration.

Bar da Dona Tati

The first place I want to shout out is Bar da Dona Tati. It’s a relatively small bar on a street corner but such a charming place, with decor made from everyday items that give you the feeling of being in the Brazilian countryside.

It’s beautiful to see that so many people do come purely to enjoy the music and the musicians were all brilliant. While I was in São Paulo, someone told me it seems that the people who come to Brazil are more interested in Brazilian music than Brazilians themselves, so it was nice to see people embracing and enjoying the beautiful things from within their own country.

People spill out into the street through the doors and the music flows out through the open windows, so the enjoyment isn’t confined solely to whoever is inside the bar. In fact, I’ve heard it can get so full that people end up out of the doors anyway because there isn’t enough room inside.

This is definitely something to bear in mind if you do go this bar. I went on a Wednesday which is the first night of the week that they’re open, and arriving before the music started meant we had every table to choose from, so we strategically picked a table that would give us an unobstructed view. By the time we left, all the tables were full but there wasn’t a need for any more.

On the other hand, you can forget about tables later in the week and indeed most of your breathing room. If you check out their Instagram you’ll get a good idea of what to expect, but don’t be put off because there’s always something joyous about enjoying music with other people, even if you end up stepping on a few toes and getting nudged by a few elbows. Or is that just me?

Vila do Samba

“I think the most advanced rhythm that the Brits can handle as a nation is ‘We Will Rock You’.“

This venue has more layout options so I can’t make you any promises as to what you’ll get, but it’s definitely worth a visit because you’ll always be guaranteed one thing: great live music.

They sometimes use the stage area on one end of the room for a more conventional ‘end on’ set up, but when I saw a brilliant band called ‘Na Palma da Mao’, the musicians were on a low stage in the centre of the room. There are a few raised areas around the room which means you can pick how close or far from the action you want to be, but no matter where you are, you’ll have a good view and can still get involved when they say ‘bate na palma da mao’.

Literally translating to ‘hit the palm of your hand’, this is a common phrase that one of the singers will often shout out to the crowd, calling for them to join in. Some of you clever clogs may have deduced that it basically means clap (give yourself a pat on the back), but there’s a certain rhythm that is typically clapped out so it doesn’t mean just do whatever you want.

Brazilians seem to have a great rhythm and it shows in the way that pretty much everyone can clap along in time to the music, even when it’s syncopated. I think the most advanced rhythm that the Brits can handle as a nation is ‘We Will Rock You’.

“Don’t wait for an invitation. Just get up and dance!”

When the musicians went for their break at Vila do Samba, the DJ played samba rock music and people began dancing in the style of the same name. I loved watching them all in pairs. To the outside eye, it probably most closely resembles salsa but the different rhythms and the various instruments in the music make it quite different.

Lucia The Legend

At Vila do Samba, I met the most wonderful lady called Lucia. She was 72 and absolutely radiant. Around the room there were people eating and drinking, some closely watching the musicians, others moving to the rhythm of the music where they stood, and then you had Lucia…

Dancing like she was 17 again and non-stop beaming from ear to ear, she carried an infectious joy. And it’s not like she was moving freely but lacking co-ordination – she was actually really good. Like really good. Her movements were so light and she isolated her body with ease but even so, the most compelling thing about her was the way she truly danced with such joy.

It was also extremely hot while I was there during the Brazilian summer but Lucia, being the fabulous woman she was, fanned herself the entire time she was dancing and effortlessly incorporated it into her choreography.

After at least an hour, she came over and began encouraging us to get up and join her. I had wanted to get up and dance since I’d arrived but instead, I sat there being all silly and shy about it, doing nothing more than tapping along on the table.

All I can say is thank you, Lucia.

Apparently I had been waiting for a personal invitation to get up and dance (eye rolling at myself) but I later thought about what would have happened if she hadn’t come over. Don’t get me wrong, I still would have had a great time soaking up the atmosphere and watching the musicians, but as soon as I obeyed Natasha Bedingfield and released my inhibitions, my night was infinitely better. And I didn’t have to go home regretting the fact that I hadn’t danced.

It’s not even that I can’t dance or have no rhythm; I was just doing that unhelpful thing called worrying about other people. Can anyone else relate? It’s pretty counterproductive in times like these.

So, my friends, don’t wait for an invitation. Just get up and dance!